Paithani Sarees: The Queen of Silks

Paithani sarees hold a treasured place in the trousseau of a bride. Symbolising the spirit of true Maharashtrian culture, the ‘Queen of Silks’ is an embodiment of grace and elegance. Adorned with colourful motifs in vibrant fabrics, these sarees are a must-have in every ethnic collection. New paithani sarees have evolved with time and paved the way for different cultural motifs and colours. A favourite among the royal families as well the modern designers today, these sarees have stood the test of time.

Major Production Areas

The origin of the Paithani silk saree was in the Paithan town of Maharashtra. It was the chosen attire by the royal and aristocratic families of Maharashtra because of its exquisite weaving and finesse. The silk threads used were sourced from China and the zari was obtained from Surat. In an original Paithani saree, almost half a kilo of silk threads is used along with a quarter kilo of pure zari threads. No wonder the final product speaks richness in every sense.

Modern-day settlement of the weavers is seen in Paithan, Yeola, Pune, Nasik and Malegaon in Maharashtra. The silk threads are now sourced from Bangalore where they are homegrown and the zari is still procured from Surat.

The Paithani Weave

The distinguishing feature of the paithani sarees collection is that it looks the same on both sides. Paithani weave involves the ‘Gara’ embroidery technique wherein no loose thread is hanging, reducing your discomfort. It follows a plain tapestry weaving technique that includes these types of weave:

Split Tapestry

It is a colour blocking technique that results in open slits in the tapestry.

Interlocking Method

It involves adding two weft yarns to the warp in order to create blocks or seams of colours.

Dove Tailing

It is a joining technique wherein you weave two different wefts onto the same warp threads to have gapless wefts side by side.

The weaving technique has evolved over the years and weavers have shifted to making broader pallus in order to be able to incorporate larger motifs with precision detailing. The entire handcrafting process takes a long time and the final product can take up to 1 year to complete. However, once you drape the paithani silk saree and feel its texture and its vibrance, it will all be worth it.

Paithani Motifs

A striking feature of the Paithani Saree design is its motifs. The choice and execution of motif design on the saree is what sets it apart from other silks in India. An array of nature-inspired motifs are used to depict stories and impart a regal look to the finished product. Traditionally the motifs used were of kamal (lotus flower), hans (swan), Bangadi mor (peacock in bangle), and rui phool (cotton flower). The Peshwa regime altered the design and led to the inclusion of asharfi (coin), asawalli (flowering vine), circles, stars and clusters of leaves. Traditional weavers even used geometric patterns such as Panja and Barwa to display these natural elements. A very common motif that is used in the border (pallu) of the saree is the Muniya (parrot) with a green body and a red beak.

Colours of Paithani

The detailed motifs skillfully executed by the weavers are brought to life with the use of vibrant hues. Paithani sarees colours range from bright red to orange, yellow, green, blue and purple. The motifs use a wide colour palette and also include shades of black to depict different designs. Evolution in the weave has allowed for exploring other variations such as using a violet warp with a gold zari weft. The weavers have also developed their own set of unique hues by mixing different colours. The beauty of this saree is the kaleidoscopic colour palette it has to offer in terms of the silk yarns used on the body or the motifs and border. The lively colours of these sarees brighten up any room and make the wearer shine with grace.

Buy Paithani Sarees Online

Procuring authentic paithani sarees online is a daunting task but can be carried out with ease. In order to avoid being duped by fakes, do proper research on the brand and ensure its authenticity. Original Paithani saree price can start as low as Rs. 10,000. Look for trusted online retailers that have experience dealing with pure silks.

Why is paithani so expensive?

Paithani sarees are an extremely time consuming and skill-based weave. The pure silk and the zari motifs are what make it even more expensive. They were the chosen attire by the royal families and it still follows that legacy. Even after so many years, the saree has maintained its heritage, which makes it a timeless item and hence, expensive.

How is paithani made?

Paithani silk saree is made using a weaving technique similar to tapestry weaving. In this, no loose threads are left hanging anywhere in the saree. Following a tapestry weaving technique, the saree has no extra weft. Moreover, the weavers use a myriad of colours that they source naturally and sometimes, even create their own version.

How can we identify pure paithani?

To identify a pure and original Paithani saree, you should look on the reverse side of the pallu. If you see that the designs and motifs are as clearly visible as on the front, then it’s a genuine paithani. There are no loose threads on the reverse side unlike other handloom sarees or the fake copies of it. It requires rare skill to be able to weave a fabric by hand that looks exactly the same on both sides.

What is the price of paithani?

Paithani saree price is usually high because of its rarity and skill-based weave. On average, a paithani saree online costs Rs. 10,000. It can go higher based on the detailing and the intricacies in the motifs and the effort required to weave this exquisite piece.

What is the speciality of Paithani saree?

The specialty of Paithani sarees is the fact that it appears the same on both sides of the saree. Paithani saree colours are vibrant and dense, and the same is visible on both sides, without any extra weft. This is one feature that separates it from all other handloom sarees and has helped it to be considered an item that is worthy of recognition all over the world.