Banarasi Saree: A Traditional Legacy

The advent of the Mughals in the fourteenth century led to a shift in the weaving industry of northern India, especially near Agra. The weavers of then Uttar Pradesh would make clothes from cotton but the Mughal influence focused on the inclusion of silk weaving which has paved the way for the thriving silk industry we see today. Varanasi (then Banaras) is credited to be the birthplace of the famous and treasured Banarasi silk saree.

What is Banarasi Saree

Banarasi Saree is traditional clothing that is worn at weddings and other special occasions. It is made from pure silk threads that involve intricate weaving techniques. The weavers of Varanasi are highly skilled in this art and their brocade making art is also known as Kinkhabs.

Banarasi sarees are the most preferred silk sarees by Indian women along with Kanjivaram. Its striking feature is the heavy brocade work on the saree with gold or silver zari work. It is used by many brides as their wedding attire especially in West Bengal where the brides are known to wear a red banarasi saree with gold work and heavy gold jewellery. It has gained immense popularity now because of celebrity endorsements.

Categories of Banarasi Silk Saree

Banarasi sarees can be categorized into four based on the fabric woven.

Pure silk (katan)

The Katan silk is the purest form of Banarasi silk saree and is characterized by its extremely soft texture. It is a plain weave with pure silk threads and is ideal for brides to wear on their big day. It follows a heavy gold brocade work spaced evenly throughout the body of the saree and a patterned pallu. This weaving technique has impressed people from around the world.

Organza (kora) with zari work

The kora organza saree is weaved in a different way. It uses raw silk threads and pure gold and silver zari threads across warp and weft. The end result is that of a lightweight and transparent silk saree with a subtle metallic shine all over it. It is harder to the touch than a Katan silk but is extremely comfortable to wear on any special event. To reduce the weight of the metallic threads, the silver fibres are polished with gold before being wound carefully on a silk thread.

Georgette

A banarasi georgette saree is a plain weave silk saree that is characterized as a lightweight and open texture saree. It is a little coarse to the touch but drapes around the body in a beautiful manner. It is generally coloured in vibrant hues to bring out the sheen of the silk fibres.

Shattir

Shattir is a distinguishable fabric that is used to weave a certain type of banarasi saree on top of it. It allows for contemporary designs and modern influences. The pattern is easily noticeable and is in high demand by people due to its simplicity.

When categorizing on the basis of design, it can be further classified as follows:

• Silk Jamdani- Originally from Bangladesh, jamdani weave can be done on both banarasiangla- Vegetation motif along with Meena work. They also include floral jaal design and continuous floral patterns.

• Jamwar Tanchoi- Nat silk and cotton fabrics

• Jive to Kashmir, uses vibrant and colourful threads

• Cut work- Extra weft is cut loose and left in the pallu

•Butidar- Small motifs present throughout

•Tissue- Lustrous full gold saree with an overall shine. Zari is woven in both warp and weft.

•Kadwa Butta- Each butta is woven separately in these sarees

Buy Banarasi Saree

If you are planning to buy banarasi saree online, look no further than Kankatala’s exquisite range of pure silk sarees for all occasions. We offer a wide variety of Banarasi silk sarees that are suitable for bridal wear and other events and occasions. They come in both traditional and modern designs in different styles. We also have Banarasi Kota with intricate zari work that would look great on a summer brunch or a house party.

What is the price of Banarasi saree?

Banarasi saree price is usually high due to the intricate detailing it showcases. The pure silk threads and real zari work also increase the cost of the saree. It falls in the range between Rs. 10,000 to 3-4 Lakhs.

Is banarasi silk pure silk?

Banarasi silk saree is made with pure mulberry silk threads along with pure silver and gold zari. Mulberry silk is one of the finest qualities of silk available. A pure banarasi will be one that uses authentic raw materials as well as follows the same weaving practice and technique that weavers from Varanasi use. The designs and motifs also play a key role in their purity.

Is banarasi silk soft?

Banarasi silk saree also known as Katan silk is known to be extremely soft. It is woven using the purest mulberry silk that lends the fabric its softness. Its delicate weaving technique also helps maintain the fabric’s softness and looks royal when draped with elegance.

What is the difference between Banarasi and Kanjivaram saree?

Banarasi saree and Kanjivaram saree are both woven using pure mulberry silk along with real silver and gold zari. However, they differ in the weaving technique, the designs and motifs, and the place of origin. Banarasi saree is from Varanasi in Uttar Pradesh, whereas Kanjivaram saree is from Kanchipuram in Tamil Nadu. Banarasi saree designs showcase heavy zari borders with a butidar motif throughout the body. Kanjivaram sarees too have a heavy gold zari brocade border that is inspired by temples. They also come in vibrant and contrasting colours.

Where can I buy Banarasi saree online?

To buy Banarasi saree online, look for trusted online retailers that have experience dealing with pure silks. There are various online stores that sell pure and authentic Indian silk sarees with a diverse range of designs and colours.